[from the Letters archive] Summer Sagra Dinners Summer 2004 During the summer of 2004 Incanto hosted a series of sagra dinners featuring some of the San Francisco Bay Area's best seasonal produce.  Our objective was twofold:  First, to share the Italian tradition of the sagra, which are held all over Italy to celebrate the arrival of new seasonal foods. Where but in Italy do the people have a party to put asparagus, mushrooms, pinenuts, sardines, even pork fat, on a pedestal for everyone to admire and share? The second reason for the sagras was to draw attention to some of the most dedicated and hard-working people we know: our local farmers.  We work all year long with our farmers to bring the best possible foods to the table here at Incanto, but rarely do they have an opportunity to meet our guests and appreciate the impact their food has in our community. The sagra dinners were an opportunity for us to more publically recognize the contribution our farmers make to the experience of dining at Incanto. We hosted three sagra dinners in July and August. Below we've included information about each one.  If we didn't see you at the dinners, we hope to see you at one this year! __________________________ Melon Sagra Monday July 19, 2004 We are honored this evening to prepare a dinner featuring produce grown by one of our favorite California farmers: Yuk Hamada of Hamada Farms. Located in Kingsburg, south of Fresno, Hamada Farms consists of approximately 240 acres of stonefruit, citrus, persimmon, apple, pear, and fig trees as well as grapes and, of course, melons. Each week Mr. Hamada makes the long journey to the Bay Area, offering a wide variety of tree- and vine-ripened fruit for sale at three farmers' markets, including San Francisco's Saturday Embarcadero Farmers' Market. As a commercial grower following in his father's footsteps, Yuk for many years sold his nectarines and grapes to packing houses that would wash and sort his fruit, grade it for size and pack it into boxes for sale to wholesalers. The packing house would throw away fruit that was already beginning to ripen because the softer fruit would not survive the week it typically takes to get it from wholesalers to stores and then into consumers' refrigerators. By then, the ripening fruit would be spoiled. In the late 1980's, Yuk and his wife Yonki decided they preferred to sell properly ripened fruit instead of selling prematurely picked fruit that could never reach its full potential in the cold storage of a mass-market commercial distributor. They began selling their fruit directly through local farmers' markets. Initially, they brought only ripe nectarines. Recognizing the great taste and variety found in less common fruit varieties, Yuk began replanting his farm with between ten and twenty new varieties of fruit each year, specifically for his farmers' market customers. Eventually, the Hamadas "retired" from commercial growing; though now Yuk is working harder than ever in his retirement. Today Hamada Farms produces more than 75 different varieties of stonefruit, 25 varieties of citrus, 14 varieties of table grapes, and 15 types of apple, pear, fig and persimmon. In addition, Hamada Farms offers 15 different varieties of melon, many of which we proudly feature tonight. Modern industrial agriculture is about striving for uniformity of plant size, shape, and color and optimizing the crop's yield, harvestability and transportability. In the course of "modernizing" our farms, the economics of specialization and monocrop agriculture have largely defeated the aesthetic of taste and trampled the natural state of polycrop diversity. Though arguably less expensive in the short-term, industrial farming practices have also proven to be the most harmful to our environment. One of the reasons that industrial farmers rely so heavily on chemical fertilizers and pesticides is that single-crop plantings tend to be the most susceptible to attack and the most likely to rob the soil of its nutrients. The Hamada family stands in stark contrast, representing the very best traditions of family farming: stewardship of the land, dedication, perseverance, sustainability, preservation of tradition, and most importantly celebration of bio-diversity and great taste. By deliberately moving in the opposite direction of modern farming practices, Yuk Hamada and Hamada Farms have enriched our lives and inspired many other small farmers to follow in their footsteps. As restaurateurs, farmers like Yuk Hamada remind us of the beauty and fragility of food, motivating us to feature only the very best seasonal produce on our menu all year long. We could not be happier to call upon the Italian tradition of sagra diners to celebrate the "fruits" of their labor this evening. About the Melons Men and melons are hard to know. Benjamin Franklin Melons are among the most promiscuous of all fruits – left to their own devices they will cross-breed incessantly. As a result, there are hundreds of varieties of melons to choose from. These are a few of the melons we're serving tonight: Canary Canary melons have a hard bright yellow rind and firm juicy light-green flesh. Casaba This is a large oblong melon that tapers off towards the stem end, with a yellow rind and light pale flesh. Charentais A refined canteloupe melon, originating in the 1920s in the Poitou-Charentes region of Western France. The skin is smooth, free of blemishes and warts, showing faint traces of ribs; the flesh is bright orange and sweet. Crenshaw They are a hybrid between the Casaba and Persian melon with a yellowish skin and salmon colored flesh. Ha'Ogen This melon is usually identified with Kibbutz Ha'Ogen in Israel, where it got its commercial start. In appearance and flavor, like a green-fleshed cantaloupe. Orange Fleshed Honeydew Most honeydew melons are green-fleshed, but the Orange Fleshed Honeydew is an obvious exception. Among the sweetest of all melons, the Orange Fleshed Honeydew was originally grown in Algeria and near Antibes, France, coming to America in 1911. Santa Claus Oval or pear shaped, with green or white flesh. The rind is wrinkled, with green blotches on bright yellow skin. The name Santa Claus refers to their ability to last in storage well into winter. Sharlyn This melon tastes like a cantaloupe and honeydew combined. Sharlyn melons are sweet with netted outer layer, greenish-orange rind, and white flesh. Sugar Baby A dark-skinned, sweet-fleshed watermelon, Sugar Baby melons are almost perfectly round. Developed in 1955 in Geary, Oklahoma. Yellow Doll A yellow-fleshed watermelon with streaked light- and dark-skinned rind. __________________________ Basil Sagra Monday August 9, 2004 Basil is one of the most widely used herbs in the world. A member of the large mint family, sweet basil is known botanically as Ocimum basilicum. It has long been used as an embalming and preserving herb, found in mummies of ancient Egypt. Perhaps because of its embalming usage, basil was also a symbol of mourning in Greece where it was known as basilikon phuton, meaning magnificent, royal or kingly herb. Most likely basil is native to India, but there are some indications it may have originated even farther east. Ancient records from 907 A.D. indicate sweet basil in the Hunan region of China. It migrated westward as whole plants, since it could be grown easily indoors away from frost exposure. Today, basil is not only used as a food flavoring, but also in perfumery, incense and herbal holistic remedies. There are more than sixty different varieties of basil, each with its own distinct flavor. These flavors include hints of lemon, thyme, jasmine, clove, cinnamon and anise. It's the leaves of the plant that are used in cooking, and these leaves can range from green to reddish to purple in color, depending on the variety. For best flavor, the leaves should be picked before the plant begins to flower. As an added benefit to growing your own, basil is said to repel flies, mosquitoes and cockroaches. Although basil is an annual, it is often pinched back to keep it from flowering, extending its growth period. Basil supposedly derives its name from the terrifying basilisk, a half-lizard, half-dragon creature with a fatal piercing stare according to Greek mythology. The basil plant was considered to be a magical cure against the look, breath or even the bite of the basilisk when a basil leaf was medicinally applied. Although this story moved into the realm of fable, basil is still today considered a medicinal cure for venomous bites. In keeping with its hostile status, later Greeks and Romans believed the most potent basil could only be grown if one sowed the seed while ranting and swearing. This custom is mirrored in French verbage where semer le baslic (sowing basil) means to rant. In Greece today, basil is readily grown as an ornamental and is used in certain religious rituals as a symbol of fertility. In medieval times, it was thought that scorpions came from basil. Legend says to acquire a scorpion, one should place a few basil leaves under a flowerpot and after awhile, the pot would be lifted to expose a scorpion. This legend no doubt ties into the Greek lore of the basilisk. In India, basil was consecrated to the Hindu god, Vishnu, whose wife Tulasi (also known as Tulsi) was said to have taken the form of basil when she came to earth. Hindus avoid harming basil plants, unless there is a good reason, and even then offer up prayers of forgiveness for touching a part of Tulasi. Interestingly enough, tradition requires the head of a Hindu be bathed in Tulasi water before being buried and a tulasi leaf is placed on the chest over the heart. To the ancient Romans, it was a symbol of hatred, yet basil eventually became a token of love in Italy. Young maidens would wear a sprig of basil in their hair to profess their availability. In some regions of Italy, basil is known as "kiss-me-Nicholas." One can only wonder if the conflicting symbolism of basil in Rome is the origin of a love-hate relationship. The royal herb is regarded in a similar manner in Romania where if a boy accepts a sprig of basil from a girl, it means they are engaged to be married. A Few Words from Andy We are honored this evening to welcome Andy Griffin and Julia Wiley of Mariquita Farms (see their bio below), to carry out the fine Italian tradition of a sagra dinner, celebrating the peak of one of the most distinctly fragrant and flavorful summer herbs: basil. Among their many talents, Andy and Julia are two of the most eloquent and literate folks we know, so we're pleased to share a few thoughts on basil that Andy penned over the weekend: Summon Aphrodite Basil, like chocolate, is food for the soul as well as the palate. The essential oils that give basil it's aromatic kick like camphor, anethol, safrole, and so forth, tickle synapses deep in our brains which in turn pluck at our heart strings. It's not for nothing that basil, like chocolate, is admired for its power to summon Aphrodite. Unlike chocolate, basil can't be successfully preserved in a wafer, a cake, a powder, or a syrup to be consumed casually when the appetite rises. Basil isn't convenient. Convenience is irrelevant to basil's charms, but since when was Aphrodite the Goddess of convenience, anyway? Let's don't talk about drying basil. Sure, basil, like all mint family members, can be dried and crushed, but then what do you have? Many of the compounds that give basil its fragrance and its sensuous charge are volatile, as in the Italian verb volare - to fly. Dean Martin can tell you all about it. "Volare, oh, oh, cantare oh oh oh oh. Let's fly way up to the clouds...Away from the maddening crowds." When you dry basil out all that is precious about it ascends to the heavens with Dino and you're left with flakes that don't do much more for a meal than alfalfa hay. Forget dried basil - it's a chump spice. So how does basil keep best? That's easy. Share a meal perfumed with fresh basil among friends, take in the scents and the flavors and let them mingle in your mind with the wine and the good company, then preserve the memory. Even if fresh basil wilts with time there's no reason the mild euphoria it induces has to be ephemeral. Basil-infused memories can be sharpened by undergoing seasonal basil fasts. Basil is a tropical perennial but it can't be successfully cultivated all year long in California. Sure, basil can be flown in from the tropics to be consumed when the frost is on the pumpkin here in the north but I find that having something constantly only dulls our appreciation for it and makes it seem commonplace. An herb like basil which has been celebrated as an aphrodisiac, which is reputed to drive off flies and bring good luck, shouldn't be demoted in significance to commodity as if it were a mere bundle of vitamins, minerals, and organic tissues. No, basil should be celebrated at the height of its yearly season with a memorable meal taken among friends, with a sagra. About Mariquita Farms After 20 years of farming with various partners, Andy Griffin and his wife Julia Wiley set off in 1997 to start their own farm.  Today they live with their two children Lena and Grayon and farm about 32 acres of vegetables in the countryside near Hollister. You'll find Andy and Julia at the San Francisco Ferry Plaza Farmers' Market every Saturday of the year under the name of Mariquita Farm (mariquita means ladybug in Spanish). Andy and Julia are among the most passionate advocates on this planet for sustainable farming; tirelessly devoting their time and energy to educate us about all aspects of farming, through personal discussions at farmers' markets, speaking engagements, written articles, and their free, weekly Marquita Farm Newsletter. The newsletter contains topical articles, news from the farm, and recipes.  It captures the passion and intelligence of Andy and Julia's love for food, farming, and life. Please visit Mariquita's website at www.mariquita.com to subscribe. __________________________ Fig Sagra Monday August 30, 2004 We are very pleased to welcome you to the third and final leg of Incanto's 2004 summer sagra dinner series. Tonight we have at least two occasions to celebrate: first, being together for an evening of delicious food and lively conviviality enjoying figs at the peak of their season, and second, recognizing the 25th anniversary of Tairwá-Knoll Farms, one of California's pioneers of sustainable farming. Rick & Kristie Knoll formed Tairwá-Knoll Farms in 1979 on a 10-acre alfalfa patch located in Brentwood, about 60 miles east of San Francisco. Their backgrounds as a chemist and performing vocalist, respectively, have served them well, as they have been applying biodynamic principles to make beautiful music from the soil ever since they began farming their land 25 years ago. Rick and Kristie are fixtures at local farmers' markets; their year-round production of fruits, flowers and vegetables includes: varietal artichokes, green garlic and bulb garlic, herbs, apricots, plums, nectarines, salad greens, and firewood.  Of course, many of us know and love the Knolls best for their figs, which we proudly serve this evening. Please join us in congratulating the Knolls for their many contributions to sustainable agriculture in the Bay Area. Figs were probably one of the first fruits to be dried and stored by man. Figs were mentioned in a Babylonian hymnbook around 2000 BC. Legend has it that the Greek goddess Demeter first revealed to mortals the fruit of autumn, which they called the fig. The fig tree was held sacred in all countries of Southwestern Asia, and in Egypt, Greece, and Italy. There was a fig tree in the Garden of Eden, and in fact, the fig is the most talked about fruit in the Bible. Whether a fig was the forbidden fruit is debatable, but it is definite that a fig tree provided the first clothing; "...the eyes of both of them were opened, and they knew that they were naked; and they sewed fig leaves together, and made themselves aprons." Every inhabitant of Athens, including Plato, was a "philosykos." Literally translated, "a friend of the fig." As a token of honor, the early Olympic athletes used figs as a training food, and figs were also presented as laurels to the winners as the first Olympic "medal." The word sycophant, meaning an informer, and one who seeks favors by flattering the wealthy, comes from the Greek "to show the fig." As the valuable and sacred figs were stolen for export purposes, certain persons revealed the figs and accused the robbers; hence "fig shower." The Romans regarded Bacchus as the god who introduced the fig to mankind. This made the tree sacred, and images of the god were often crowned with fig leaves. The first figs of the season were offered to Bacchus, and at festivals in his honor, devout females wore garlands of dried figs.  Pliny, the Roman writer (52-113 AD) wrote, "Figs are restorative. They increase the strength of young people, preserve the elderly in better health and make them look younger with fewer wrinkles."   It is said that the prophet Mohammed once exclaimed: "If I should wish a fruit brought to Paradise it would certainly be the fig." Figs were brought to California by the Spanish missionary fathers, who first planted them at the San Diego Mission in 1759. Fig trees were then planted at each succeeding mission, going North through California. The Mission fig, California's leading black fig, takes its name from this history. The popular Calimyrna fig, golden brown in color, is the Smyrna variety that was brought to California's San Joaquin Valley from Turkey in 1882, and was renamed Calimyrna in honor of its new homeland. About the Figs Train up a fig tree in the way it should go, and when you are old sit under the shade of it. Charles Dickens Figs are believed to have originated in western Asia and to have been subsequently distributed by humans throughout the Mediterranean. Unlike most fruit, in which the edible structure consists of mature ovary tissue surrounding a seed, the fig's edible structure is technically speaking not entirely fruit, but an inverted flower, with (depending on the type of fig) both the male and female flower parts enclosed in stem tissue. This structure is known botanically as a syconium. At maturity, the interior of the fig contains only the remains of these flower structures, including the small gritty structures we think of as seeds. Actually, these seeds (again, depending on the variety of fig) usually are nothing more than unfertilized ovaries that failed to develop.  Listed below are a few of the fig varieties we are serving this evening: Adriatic Transplanted from the Mediterranean, the Adriatic fig is among the most prolific of all fig varieties. Medium green to greenish-yellow in color, Adriatic figs are shaped like a top with small or no neck, a light strawberry pulp and good flavor. Its high sugar content, retained as the fruit dries to a golden shade, makes this fig the prime choice for fig bars and pastes. Brown Turkey Brown Turkey figs are large, with a purple-brown skin; the interior is a rich amber pink. The fig is known for reliably good flavor and outstanding hardiness, including a strong ability to tolerate salt water, making them suitable for coastal growing.  The name refers both to the color of the ripe fig and the country of origin, although some experts say the origin is southern France. Kadota The American version of the original Italian Dattato, is thick-skinned and possesses a beautiful creamy amber color when ripe. Practically seedless, this fig is a favorite for canning and preserving as well as drying. Melissa The Melissa fig looks like a smaller, rounder, Brown Turkey, with white dots. It's got a custardy, salmon-colored flesh. According to Rick Knoll, the name of this fig originates from the Allman Brothers song, "Melissa," about a woman who was as sweet as this fig. Mission Named for the mission fathers who planted the fruit as they traveled north along the California coast, the Mission fig is famous for its distinctive flavor and prominent neck. The fresh fruit exhibits a deep purple shade, which darkens to a rich black when dried. Fig Leaves & Wood The fig's distinctively shaped leaves account for much of the fig's fame.  They also contribute a particular fig flavor; we have used them in the marinade for the quail. Fig wood also has distinctive flavor properties; we have burned small amounts of it on our gas grill to impart more fig flavor to tonight's dinner.